Kay's Korner - A Knitters Notes

February 14, 2008

Last entry, I discussed using the yarn standards chart to determine if a yarn is suitable to use as a substitute for a recommended yarn in a pattern. Although there are several guidelines to aid in this determination, in my opinion the most accurate is to compare the wraps per inch or wpi. This value never seems to be on commercial yarn labels, so one must learn to determine it - an easy task. Wpi is the number of strands wrapped side by side within a one inch measure. For example, a lace weight yarn will be 18+ wpi and a worsted weight 12 wpi. For more information on wpi and a handy chart comparing them to standard yarn weights, go here.

Retail wpi tools are available, but it is so easy to make one yourself. A ruler, even a pencil with an inch marked in the wood, will work, but with a dowel and a woodburner, your new tool will earn a place in your knitting bag.. Notches marking off each inch are a plus and a four inch tool will double as a measure for stitch gauge.

Finally, there are some exceptions when substituting yarns with different characteristics from a recommended yarn, even using a wpi tool. Even though eyelash yarn or fine mohair will have a very high wpi value, they are usually considered a heavier yarn rhan their wpi would suggest. DiVe's Mohair Kiss, a 70% mohair blend distributed by Cascade Yarns, has a wpi of 14 or sport weight by my determination, yet is considered to be worsted weight and the recommended needle size is #9 US, knitting up at 4 stitches to the inch, the higher end of what is considered worsted weight. Very flat, wide ribbon yarns, such as Louisa Harding's Sari Ribbon, are another example of an exception to the wpi method of yarn substitution. This yarn would measure over an inch, if wrapped flat around our tool only two turns, yet is considered another worsted weight at 4 stitches per 1 inch on #11 US needles. As in life, common sense works in our favor when we are presented with situations outside the norm.

Finally, the fiber content of a yarn will effect many aspects of your finished project. Felted items must be made from animal fibers, usually wool, but a superwash wool will not felt, as is the case with some white wools. If you substitute a bulky weight cotton yarn for a bulky weight angora, your garment will be heavier (in ounces) and the actual weight of the fabric can effect the fit. A trumpet skirt fashioned in linen will lose its exceptional drape if knit in acrylic. I am not wanting you to be afraid to try very different yarns than the one recommended in your pattern. You just need to be aware that the pattern designer had specific reasons for choosing a particular yarn and has used stitches and techniques with that yarn in mind. Swatching is always your best guide to how a substitute yarn will look in your pattern stitch and when using a different fiber alternative, laundering the swatch is most helpful. Although there is science involved in our craft, knitting and crochet are needle arts. We express ourselves through the patterns and yarns we choose, so although some choices may work better technically, there is no right or wrong in art.

On Kay's Needles
Presently, I have several projects on my needles. I am making a felted basket to corral our multiple remote controls out of Cascade 220, a double strand on size 11 US. We just got in On line's Supersocke 100 in the Hiking colorways and I just had to cast on this popular self patterning yarn on my #3 US double points for some handknit socks for hubby. I pulled a spring sweater out of my UFO pile, a pattern from Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer '06 using Gedifra Fiocco and began both sleeves on a circular needle.

Having learned to spin recently, I just have to show you my very first homespun yarn. (Yes, I know. It's pretty darned homely.) Spinning has helped me to have a greater appreciation of the many factors that go into making a good yarn, such as amount of twist, color, choice of fiber, and number of plies. By taking a step back to the 18th century, I am more keenly aware that as hand knitters in the 21st century, we are so fortunate to have a wonderful variety of commercially made yarns readily available to us.

Copyright 2008 Karen Mather