Kay's Korner - A Knitters Notes

OK, maybe it is not quite that bad. Yet. But I hear an increasing number of knitters, crocheters, and spinsters referring to their love for fiber as an addiction. Actually, I do start feeling a mild withdrawal when I go a couple of days without knitting. In the past, I have slipped bags of yarn from my car trunk into the house when no one was looking and hid them in the back of a closet. And yes, I have fudged when telling my husband the amount that I spent at the yarn shop. It is sounding more like an addiction all the time.

By the way, I suppose I am a yarn dealer, as well. If someone comes to me looking for some yarnie happiness, I am going to do my best to satisfy their fiber lusts. I understand their need for softness and their attraction to color. Many of us justify our fiber cravings by saying there are gifts to be made, feet that our cold, but more often the truth is that we see a particular yarn as a must have, then find a need to rationalize the purchase. This usually involves some line about love or someone else's need or both.

But truly, if I must have a vice, this is not a bad one to have. Hey, it is legal! And after all, isn't fiber supposed to be good for us? No one goes without food to get a yarn fix, although Cat Bordhi has suggested eating peanut butter sandwiches for lunch in order to save money to buy good circular needles. Yes, I am afflicted with yarn lust. I even go to support groups at least once a week to share my experiences with other knitters. But the way I see it, if I am going to have a monkey on my back, I want it to be one of those cute knitted ones with floppy arms, red mouthes and feet. Hmm, I could knit the body in kettle dyed alpaca and the feet in...

Happy Knitting!

On Kay's Needles
In a word, socks! For our 29th anniversary, I am knitting my husband a pair of socks using OnLine Supersocke, a wonderful German sock yarn spun from 75%Superwash wool and 25% nylon. The self patterning yarn keeps the knitting fun, as I watch the stripes and patterns spring alive from simple stockinette and ribbing. Next week, look for my thoughts on sockitecture and some advice for those wanting to jump on the sock knitting bandwagon for the first time.

In 2008, designer Elsebeth Lavold introduced Calm Wool to her yarn collection. Of course, as a buyer for Rare Purls, I am always quick to order any yarn with Lavold's name as they are always top quality and have her wonderful pattern support. As a favorite bulky luxury yarn had been discontinued, initially I thought Calm Wool might be a good replacement. But the fat, lofty appearance of this yarn is deceiving; it is not a true bulky weight yarn. Most of the patterns call for a size #7 US needle, putting this yarn in the aran or worsted weight category on the yarn standards chart. Even the yardage, 82 yards /50 grams, is comparable to many bulky yarns. But if you choose this yarn as a substitute, you will want to stay close to the suggested gauge. The two lofty plies knit into stitches with character. Simple seed stitch has beautiful definition and cables are plump with distinct edges. Even a simple garter ridge visually pops next to rows of stockinette.

But beautiful stitches aren't the only reason to choose Calm Wool for your next cool-cold weather project. The camel/alpaca/wool blend is marvelously soft, characteristic of high quality camelid fibers. If any of you are old enough to remember the highly regarded camel hair coats of the mid 20th century , camel fiber is both soft and durable, truly a fabulous exotic, luxury fiber. I'm also a huge fan of alpaca, adoring its soft hand and highly insulating qualities. I suspect the wool has been added for elasticity, as no fiber equals the crimp of wool. The end result of this balanced fiber blend is a yarn that exceeds my every expectation.

Lavold's pattern book, Touch of Romance, where Calm Wool and another new yarn, Bambool, are featured, is also a success. (I will review Bambool at a later date). The nine designs knit in Calm Wool are appealing, especially Phoebe, the sweater coat with an easy stitch pattern that delivers both textural interest and visual impact. Imogen, a versatile vest is classic fashion and Lady, a pet sweater, is simply charming. The mens pullover, Cameron, is possibly the most handsome mens sweater I have ever seen. Masculine details (Lavold was inspired by barbed wire when designing the stitch motifs), a textbook use of relief, and this wonderful yarn team for design success.

This yarn is truly imspiring. Already I am busy designing an accessory set knit using two colors of Calm Wool. The twelve debut colors mix and match well, all of similar saturation (Hopefully, Ms. Lavold will give us a striped sweater in an upcoming book, capitalizing on these agreeable colors.) Consider using it for accessories or your next cabled sweater. You will simply love the way this natural fiber blend delights both visually and tactilely. It is easy to get excited about Calm Wool.

On Kay's Needles

For the past couple of weeks, I have been knitting a mixed bag. I finished half of a summer shell in an easy diagonal stockinette, knit in Laines du Nord Zahir, a ribbon yarn of silk/cotton. The colorway of lovely spring pastels will be perfect with white slacks, a summertime staple. The fabric has great texture, yet is very light and airy, sure to be cool and comfortable casual wear. I started a student on a garter stitch wrap in this same yarn, but on #13 US needles for a lacier look. It is always interesting to see how different projects turn out using the same yarn.

Even still, I am continuing the reknit of Happy, from Elsebeth Lavold's Book 11, The Sunny Side Collection. Having ripped and began the reknit with a needle two sizes down from the original, the stretching problem has been eliminated using the tighter gauge. I am nearly finished with this warm weather pullover and have to admit that although I adore both the yarn, Hempathy, and the design, I will be happy when Happy is no longer in my knitting bag.

Copyright Kay Mather Rare Purls 2009

Little ones enjoy the soft caress of hand knits, just as we do. Knitting for infants, toddlers, and growing children is a popular pastime. Whether booties, blankets, hats, toys, or togs, these smaller projects knit up quickly and make wonderful gifts. Here are a few tips to make these hand made treasures darling, durable, and well received.

First, natural fibers are not purely a luxury for wee knits. Wool remains warm and comfy even when damp and is so soft next to young skin. I choose superwash wool for children's blankets and clothing to keep knitted wool's wonderful qualities, yet be kind to busy moms on wash day. If the child is said to be sensitive to wool, cottons, cotton blends, soy, bamboo, and rayon are all excellent options. Avoid acrylic yarns for when exposed to extreme heat or fire, they melt! Need I say more?

It isn't necessary to limit your projects to baby yarns. Any quality yarn of the desired weight will work for children's knits and using them opens up a world of colorful options. What I call crayon colors - think of that box of 16 colors - look darling on toddlers. Babies also look charming in navy with white or cream trim or soft grays with pink trim. Red, white, and blue is always cute on toddlers as well as pumpkin and greens. I do avoid black and metallics, saving this drama for teens. I also avoid pure white, except for trims. Children's clothing gets lots of wear and washing and no mom wants to clothe her little munchkin in dingy white. An ivory christening ensemble is precious.

Be aware that babies have large heads and very small necks. Be sure to make neck edgings flexible and pullover items with adequate neck openings. Buttons are darling, but be sure they can not be easily removed and cause a choking hazard. Zippers and Velcro closures are handy; i-cord ties add whimsy. Snaps are popular on children's clothing, but I suggest sewing them first to grosgrain ribbon or bias tape before anchoring them to knit fabric.

As you know, little ones grow like little sprouts! If you make clothes with built in grow room, you increase the wear of your hand knit. Sleeves can be turned up for a cuff at first, then worn down when the child grows. Same goes for pant legs. A toddler's tunic can be a sweater later on, with a bit of planning. If items are knit top down, a snip of a single stitch will reveal live stitches, making it possible to add length to bottom edges of any garment. Use your imagination.

Do avoid knitting that will tangle up little fingers. Fair isle floats inside sleeves and mittens do not make for easy toddler dressing. The same holds true for lace and openwork stitch patterns. Reserve these techniques for yokes and hems. Keep ties short to avoid a choking hazard.

Finally, mom's and dad's always appreciate a hand knit for their wee ones, but if it is the child who you are aiming to delight, try knitting a stuffed animal or some other toy. For years my son had a strong attachment to a hand made pillow, where some toddlers love a special blankie. With intarsia or sewn on patches, a favorite hero, pictures of common items like simple sailboats or a big strawberry, and cartoon characters can be incorporated on handknits to make them more personalized. Steer clear of using the child's name on any embellishment. Although it is cute to see "Bobby" or "Zoe" on a sweater, a stranger can seem to be a friend when they approach a child knowing their name.

Copyright Kay Mather 2009

If this were a perfect world, any knitter who heard "this is an E.Z. Pattern" would immediately think Elizabeth Zimmerman, rather than a skill level. My admiration for Elizabeth Zimmerman is long standing and recently when I was reading The Best of Vogue Knitting - 25 Years of Articles, Techniques, and Expert Advice, I was delighted to see many of her articles. Her wit and wisdom are seamlessly blended into her own expert advice. E.Z.'s articles and patterns are as fresh and pertinent today as they were years ago. Her original patterns are increasingly popular, as can be seen in the number of people on Ravelry knitting her Baby Surprise Jacket alone. She taught a generation to "knit without tears", a lesson her daughter, Meg Swansen, is keeping alive through continued publication of E.Z.'s works through Schoolhouse Press. She is the original "opinionated knitter", letting us into her thoughts and projects long before blogs ever existed. Elizabeth Zimmerman's imprint on our craft will certainly endure for many generations to come.

On Kay's Needles
My one completed project this month was a hat and scarf set knit in Queensland Collection's Big Wave, a birthday gift for my brother-in-law. The super bulky, thick-thin, lofty single ply yarn is a wool/cashmere blend, very soft and textural. I used a double seed stitch pattern for the scarf and single seed for the hat, both exaggerating the texture of the yarn. The result was a rustic, masculine pair of accessories, perfect for casual wear.
These days, much of my time is spent knitting the samples for our Rare Purls Original Kit line. Here is a sneak peek of these competitively priced kits, using only high quality yarns and easy to follow instructions.

Copyright Kay Mather 2009

As not only an avid knitter, but also an instructor, I have developed habits that make knitting go more smoothly. I have yet to meet a knitter who enjoys ripping back work or wearing a project that has turned out disappointingly. Hopefully, these tips will help to make your own knitting more satisfying and with fewer frustrations.

Of course, swatching is your best tool for successful projects. Not only does it properly size your work, it is a good opportunity to become acquainted with the yarn and stitch pattern used in your project. Many beginning knitters see the gauge given at the top of their pattern instructions and regard it as general information, rather than necessary data. Seasoned knitters at times go straight for the cast on, especially working projects where size does not seem critical, such as scarves or throws. But even when size is not such an issue, if your knitting is turning out much larger than the given gauge, you very well might run out of yarn, an irritating and costly mistake.

Even when knitting at the recommended gauge, there are times when more yarn is needed than is suggested in the pattern. I make it a habit to buy at least one extra skein of any primary yarn in a project so I won't be caught short. I avoid the possible hassle of having to run down another skein of the same dyelot or the even bigger hassle of running down a discontinued yarn or color. I keep the extra yarn in a ziplok bag along with my receipt, to facilitate a return should the yarn go unused. Note - most yarn shops have a time limit in their return policy and will not allow returns if the ball band is missing or if a yarn sold in hanks has been wound into a ball.

Another good habit is to take the time to visually check your work every few rows. A friend was sailing through her first lace project, when near completion she noticed that the stole was lopsided. And I mean WAY lopsided. At some point, she had put down her work in the middle of a row and when she started back knitting, she had begun knitting in the wrong direction. In fact, she had done this on two separate occasions, making several unintentional short rows. Her stitch count was accurate, but the work was a real mess. A quick visual check would have caught the error and averted the frustration of ripping out days and days of work. I make it a habit to complete a row before putting down my knitting, to avoid this very mishap.

Even when knitting a foot of stockinette with no shaping, I find myself counting every few rows. This is a habit left over from my early days, when frequently a split ply or a wayward yarn wrap would unknowingly be knitted and add to my stitch count, a common beginner's error. Dropped stitches, though easily corrected, are a challenge, as well. If your count is not right, you know there is a problem somewhere and you will become a better knitter by finding the cause. I don't make as many mistakes these days, but my counting habit still serves me well. I love that little feeling of satisfaction when I get to the end of a row and have the proper stitch count. Whee! It never gets old.

Taking a moment to read all the way through your pattern is always recommended. So many times a designer will add information at the middle or the end of a pattern that alters the instructions that came before. More than once, I've gotten far into a pattern, then read "at the same time" and had to rip back to include those instructions, never a happy scenario. Recently, I was knitting a striped pullover and knit the back and front pieces first, as is usual in patterns. But the designer had instructed that the sleeves be knit first for a reason, to make it a simpler task to match the stripes when joining the sleeves. I had to rip out both sleeves and knit them from the shoulder down in order for the color stripes to match horizontally when the sleeves were sewn into the body. A great tip, stockinette looks the same whether you knit bottom up or top down,

Speaking of sleeves, lately I have gotten into the habit of knitting both sleeves simultaneously. I cast on both sleeves on a circular needle and work back and forth, using two balls of yarn, of course. This way, I only have to deal with the shaping increases and decreases in the pattern once and I end up with perfectly matched sleeves. Many sock knitters have converted to the magic loop technique and knit both socks simultaneously, for the same reason. This is surely the easiest way to avert falling into the dreaded second sock syndrome. I have taken this idea even further and cast on both left and right fronts of cardigans at the same time on the same circular needle. Again, I only have to navigate the shaping once and my pieces are beautifully matched. If you try this, be sure to reverse the shapings for the left and right fronts.

Over the years, I have developed many personal habits that help me to be a better knitter, to accomplish great results, but these are my habits, my preferences. With time, we all come up with our own modus operandi. Where my checklist suits me, I encourage you to experiment and develop your own way of navigating a pattern, a project. We can learn from others, but ultimately, it is our own project, our own path. And after all, don't most of us savor the journey as much as the destination, if not more?

Happy Knitting!

On Kay's Needles

The project giving me the most satisfaction over the holidays was the Urban Adventure Bag, designed by Noni. Not a difficult or time consuming knit and the end result was so gratifying! With some basic finishing, the simple construction became a sturdy and savvy shoulder bag. A double strand of Cascade 220 quickly knit into the body of the bag. An I-cord handle and some chunky notions pulled it all together. Though my choice of a heathered yarn was all the pizazz I needed, the generous sides of the bag body offer the perfect opportunity for embellishment. A needle felted emblem comes to mind, though a separately felted adornment would look nice, as well.

If I were to have a New Year's resolution associated with my knitting, it would be to finish the small stack of my projects that only need a bit of sewing. It is not entirely finishing phobia that has thwarted me. Year after year, I knit beautiful, warm, winter sweaters, only for an early spring and warmer weather to divert my attention to designs more suitable to the changing climate. The winters in Georgia are getting warmer over the past few years. I am told that El Nino is the culprit, but it does bring to mind what the future will hold if global warming goes unchecked.

Happy Knitting!

Kay Mather

Copyright 2009