Kay's Korner - A Knitters Notes

This year, I am adding hand made socks to my gift list. Socks are a wardrobe staple and, if knit well fitting, warm, and attractive, they are truly an earthly delight. With the abundance of sock patterns and yarns available, it is easy to match a perfect pair to everyone on your list. As the yarn requirement is usually 100 grams or less, socks are quite an affordable gift. Although I remember that not so many years ago, I thought making socks was only for the experienced knitter, with the written assistance of Cat Bordhi and Kate Gilbert, I am now able to tackle basic socks worry free and more complex pairs with the confidence that comes with understanding basic concepts.

A sock is comprised of but a few components: the leg portion, the heel, the gusset (really the only part that is a bit tricky), the foot, and the toe. Socks do have a goodly amount of shaping for their size, but once that shaping is learned, all socks are variations on the same structure. Many of the women at my weekly knitting circle, the Noble Knitters, knit socks from memory. The outcome is an attractive and practical gift, whether for oneself or some other lucky person.

My ambition this holiday season is to give every man on my list a pair of socks. I mean, who doesn't need more socks?! Even basic sock patterns look quite impressive with the widely available self patterning yarns. Sock yarns are currently one of the most popular specialty yarns on the market. Manufacturers are formulating yarns that all but assure success, from self striping to mimicking fair aisle, from kettle dyed to deep solids, and most are spun in easy care superwash fibers. The addition of luxury fibers ensure an accessory that is not only appealing to the eye, but even more delightful to wear. These yarns are hard core indulgence.

A recent delivery to Rare Purls included a bag of Classic Elite Alpaca Sox. Though sock yarns come in every color of the rainbow and a multitude of combinations, this color batch was named simply "Wren", a perfect, lofty blend of ashy medium brown with muted enhancing tones - just lovely! Alpaca Sox is super soft due to the high alpaca content and durable from the addition of 20% nylon, a must to ensure a long wearing sock. Most sock yarns are spun in superwash wool and come in a standard 4 ply or the more bulky 6 ply. Although wool is the standard, blends containing silk, alpaca, and even soy are available. Some yarns come with additional fine yarn to work in the soles, but my preference is to work the bottom of the foot in a more dense gauge using a needle a size smaller than the rest of the sock. This fortifying technique is a breeze when using the socks on two circulars method, but is also easily achieved with double point needles. The outcome is a sock that will withstand both wear and the test of time. After all, whatever lucky person gets these handsome tootsie huggers will want to wear them any time they are clean. With this in mind, a drawer full of hand knit socks would not be too many, making this the perfect gift year after year.

Other ideas for man pleasing gifts projects are cowls, ski hats, gloves, and ties. All require only modest amounts of yarn, which gives you the option of splurging on the good stuff! A cashmere scarf is a truly luxurious accessory, even when knit in a simple stitch pattern, and ties knit in quality sock yarn can be quite dashing. But in my book? Nothing says love quite like a gift of super soft, hand knit socks.

Copyright Kay Mather 2008

I am so blessed being surrounded by a family full of men. Bill, my husband of over 28 years, my grown son, Luke whom many of you know as my boss, and Will our first born, now living in San Diego. Naturally, I try to knit for them, wanting them wrapped in soft, yarny love, but where it is easy to find projects that the women in my life will appreciate, my men are a more challenging task. For all of you looking for man pleasing projects, perhaps you can benefit from my years of experience making gifts for the men in my life.

My first experience in knitting for the male of the species was a resounding failure. I was about 13 years old and crocheted a cardigan as a gift for my older brother. Lots of allowance and hours of work produced a sweater only a mother could love, but certainly not my brother. Even with natural wood buttons and masculine colors, the fit was terrible and the overall effect quite "home made" rather than "hand made." Although as a Southern gentleman he made the appropriate comments, the sweater was never worn and probably donated if not discarded. Strike one.

As I matured, both as a person and as a needle artist, my second gift to a man was during my senior year of high school. I purchased a lovely kit for a crocheted afghan and made it for a home economics credit. The finished project was quite detailed and lovely, but my pride at Christmas turned into regret in February when my bull headed beau sought greener (and older) pastures. Strike two.

Not one to give up easily, my third gift to a man in my life was a knitted raglan pullover detailed with rows of cables up the yoke. I chose a soft, medium brown 100% wool worsted and a pattern above my skill set. My then boyfriend had enlisted in the U.S. Navy and was shipping out February 13th. I worked diligently to finish this sweater before his departure, learning about cables, stitch holders, and proper blocking along the way. To my delight, the finished project was PERFECT! Bill was very impressed at both my craftsmanship and my diligence, that I had spent many clandestine hours creating a sweater , a beautiful sweater, for him. Yes, I know what "they" say about boyfriend sweaters, but to this day, my husband relates how this knitted gift had a significant part in winning his heart. Home run! A hand made gift is not only beautiful, it is also a tangible symbol of commitment, all tied up in yarn. Each stitch expresses your love.

Since that occasion, knitting with a man in mind no longer stresses me and all of my gifts have been well received. A Noro hat and scarf set for my father lay in his drawer for several years, but upon his retirement, it became his chosen warmth for every winter walk. Both sons have oversized, cozy afghans in their choice of colors, snuggly warmth for now and keepsakes for years to come. Some of our friends have enjoyed knitted gifts as well. Doug's Big Wave was knit for a friend and then became a popular, easy pattern, its popularity outlasting the production of the title named yarn. Other ideas for man pleasing projects are cowls, ski hats, gloves, socks and ties. All require only modest amounts of yarn, which gives you the option of splurging on the good stuff! A cashmere scarf is a truly luxurious accessory, even when knit in a simple stitch pattern. Ties knit in sock yarn can be quite dashing and, in my book, nothing says love quite like a gift of hand knit socks.

On Kay's Needles

It seems that my needles have been so busy that my pen needs to play catch up! Nothing gets my needles clicking like a gusty Autumn day! When working on a design for a moebius lace scarf, an inspiration from Cat Bordhi's moebius scarf seen on the DIY network show, Knitty Gritty, I discovered when I was binding off the double coil of stitches, that I had knit a beautiful lace collar. The project, with its many rows of fagoting, would not fit a neck snuggly enough to be worn as a scarf, but the lovely layers of lace will look marvelous as a collar to a pullover sweater. Hopefully, I can come up with a fitting pullover design this month, to complete the concept.

My sock knitting has taken several turns. I began my On Line Supersocke project on #3 US double point needles, only to find the knit fabric was too loose for a durable sock. Not only did I change to a smaller needle, but I also changed to two circular needles, following instructions for an alternate sock knitting technique. I am currently working on the heel, where I have again changed the needle gauge, using a #1 US needle in order to knit a denser fabric for a longer wearing sole. I have been consulting Cat Bordhi's book, Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles, for my basic sock pattern and her clear instructions on this increasingly popular sock knitting technique.

I have designed a cozy rustic cardigan to ward off those chilling winds, perfect to wear with jeans, a khaki skirt, or my favorite corduroy jumper. The yarn I am using for my sweater is Himalayas by Queensland Collection , a lofty single ply 100% wool that has variegated color and texture. The thin-thick nature of the yarn brings interest to a simple stockinette stitch pattern, making this a good choice for a first sweater by a novice knitter. I have chosen to add polished wood buttons, to add a country feel to my colorway of autumn colors, but for those seeking a more urban look, try fun and funky Lucite buttons in coordinating colors. Himalayas is a bulky weight yarn, so this is truly a quick knit and as always, Queensland Collection yarns are a good value, while not forsaking quality. Himalayas Cardigan will be available at rerepurls.net November 1, 2008, with the Rare Purls Original Pattern free with purchase of the kit;

Also on my needles, an infant haat for my newest nephew, Blake Alan. I have knit a hat in Andes by Ester Bitran yarns to match one I made for Blake's dad last year. The colorway is David's favorite, the colors of mossy oak camouflage in a 100% wool, hand dyed yarn.

Stitches South

What better way to spend a long weekend than among literally tons of yarn, innovative knitting instructors, and the season's hottest designers?! April 23-26, 2009, Stitches South will make its debut at the fashionable Galleria in North Atlanta. Stitches expos have been a mecca for knitters for many years now and finally Stitches is coming to the South. Classes, fashion shows, yarn distributors, and a gaggle of retail vendors will be gathered at the Galleria to present a long weekend of fiber excitement. For those of you traveling here to join in on the fun, the adjacent hotel and other nearby lodging have many rooms available, placing you in the lap of luxury while you rest your feet between shopping, classes, and other knitterly diversions. Shop till you drop, take a class from a nationally recognized instructor, learn a new and innovative technique, then retire to your room to cast on and rest up for the next day.

Rare Purls will be there in the thick of the fun, offering our original kits plus some of our own favorite designer lines. This will certainly be the yarn event of the year south of the Mason Dixon line and I urge you to make plans early. If you have any questions or would like more information, please contact me at kmather@rarepurls.net. I hope to see you there!

Copyright Kay Mather 2008

Folks are already planning long weekend road trips with the sole purpose of viewing nature's splashy change of seasons. Autumn colors seem to warm our hearts as they delight our eyes. What better way to chase away fall's chilly gusts than a cuddly sweater knit in the warm colors of the season.

If you're in a hurry to wear a little snuggly warmth this early in the fall, a bulky sweater knit in well insulating animal fibers will be too warm for most regions, but a transitional weight cardigan or short sleeve pullover is perfect for this time of year. A sweater knit in plant fibers or blends (think bamboo, cotton, or linen) offers a bit of breathable warmth and is a cozy season spanning piece. Whether you choose colors that welcome autumn or favor a more neutral palette, lightweight sweaters are a most versatile wardrobe staple. Just today as I was craving to knit a sweater to greet the fall experience, Make It Modern, accompanied with bags of Soft Linen and Cotton Bamboo, the yarns used to knit these Classic Elite designs, arrived at our door. The pattern booklet, a collaborative work from several prominent American designers including Kate Gilbert and Pam Allen, is fabulous, the norm for Classic Elite pattern support.

Soft Linen, a scrumptious blend of baby alpaca (the softest!), wool, and linen, introduced in spring '08, is fashioned into several transitional weight projects. The Hoodie, a familiar and functional wardrobe piece, has interesting details - openwork diamonds and a deep slit at the bust with buttons attached, so you can choose your level of modesty. The Feather and Fan Cardigan is a lacy workhorse that will pull together a variety of looks. The easy lacework bodice is a show stopper with the remainder of the body knit downward, allowing an easy adjustment of overall length. The Button Up Shrug that doubles as a shoulder wrap, knit in an easy traditional lace stitch pattern, is quite versatile and eye catching as well. The final Soft Linen pattern is the Little Leaf Scarf, a cunning little adornment requiring a single skein, the perfect project to play with this new yarn on a small scale and a great gift idea as well.

The Cotton Bamboo offerings are true season spanners, warmer than a summer tank or tee, but with the same aptitude for layering. Girl Tank is knit in two versions of garter rib stitch and is simply beautiful. (I want one in several colors.) The Fluttery Sleeve Top has lacy detail on the sleeves, neckline, and around the bottom that will keep the knitting interesting. The satin ribbon tie at the neck is a sweet touch. Although the Smock Top is rated for experienced knitters, the instructions appear quite clear and the cable rib chart is easy to follow. The empire bodice is rich in stitch detail and knit in only two pieces, with little finishing. This design would be flattering to all figures and is written for sizes Extra Small to Extra Large. Cotton Bamboo is a wonderful example of a synergistic blend of fibers, an accomplishment always present in Classic Elite's blended yarns.

I don't have a problem deciding which of the designs in Make It Modern I want to knit; I truly want to knit them all!

Happy Knitting!
Copyright 2008 Kay Mather

When someone comes up with a whole new way of seeing something ordinary, it catches my attention. If an honorary PhD could be given for knitwear design, I would nominate Cat Bordhi, a woman with true vision. She thinks outside the box, then shows us how to explore her new horizons. The woman is a knitwear design genius and is happy to share her insights. Although a very experienced knitter, I still look for designs that teach me something new. A couple of weeks ago, I happened to catch a rerun of Knitty Gritty, originally aired on the DIY network. In this episode, Ms. Bordhi explained a most cunning method of knitting a moebius scarf, based on the geometric shape described by the German mathematician Dr. A. F. Mobius.

For those unfamiliar, a moebius strip is a surface with only one side and only one boundary, a most unusual geometric shape. To make a model, take a strip of paper, twist it one half revolution, then tape the ends together. You now have a moebius strip. If you then trace along the length of the paper, you will go twice the length of your original paper strip. While most knitters create a moebius scarf by knitting a long strip then making a half twist and joining (such as in my example with paper and tape), Ms. Bordhi demonstrated a moebius cast on, setting the stitches up for a bit of magic. On a long circular needle, she effected a cast on where stitches are ready to knit in both directions, knitting both top and bottom simultaneously, on each row. A twist is purposely placed before the join, creating the moebius strip. A marker is placed and she proceeds with another new technique when knitting the first row. As a picture is worth a thousand words, go to www.diynetwork.com for photos and complete instructions for Ms. Bordhi's moebius scarf.

Other projects from Cat Bordhi can be found in her many books. Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles
teaches a technique which frees knitters from double point needles for sock making. In New Pathways for Sock Knitters: Book one, she teaches more innovative techniques for knitting socks. A Treasury of Magical Knitting and A Second Treasury of Magical Knitting explore unusual projects that all start with a moebius cast on.

On Kay's Needles

The past several months, we have received reports of the website being down. Luke has been working to remedy this situation and we are moving forward with uploading retail yarn listings. Please check back from time to time as new yarns are being added weekly. Our goal is to become your first on line stop for knitting needs.

Mum and I gave a baby shower for my niece Jessica this past Saturday, so last week I was busy working on a gift that I hoped would not only be practical, but also fun. I designed a pattern of bright stripes of color in eyelash against a background of pure white, all knit on the diagonal in easy and reversible garter stitch. I chose royal blue, lavender, baby yellow, turquoise, and red, colors suitable for either gender, and used washable synthetic yarns, FunFur from Lion Brand for the eyelash and Cascade 220 Superwash, one of my all time favorite yarns for children's items, for the white background. The finished project was both festive and useful, a cute addition to Blake's nursery.

Copyright 2008 Kay Mather

For those familiar with the popular show "What Not to Wear", you know that an unsuspecting woman is surprised by the shows hosts, joined with many of her family and friends, and she is told what a poor sense of style she has. Ouch! Well, I am not going to hand out $5,000 for a new wardrobe, but I do hope to help you make a better choice when deciding on a knitwear pattern.

When knitting for yourself, it is a good idea to pull out your best fitting sweater and take some measurements. Check the bust, waist and hip dimensions, as well as the length from the neckline to the waist. Use these measurements as a guide when choosing what size to make, comparing them to the finished measurements in the pattern. If the pattern doesn't give finished measurements or have a schematic, check the sizing chart on the yarn standards website to see what size best matches your sweater's dimensions.

Now I know at least a few of you are going to skip measuring and use the size marked on the sweater's label. Although there are industry standards for sizing women's and men's clothes, all size 12's are not the same. Where some designers like a tailored fit, others go for something more loose fitting and forgiving. Generally, more expensive lines tend to be more generously cut. Sizing also varies by world geography. When I was flipping through an On Line pattern book not long ago, I noticed that the sizing was not the same as in most American patterns. This prompted me to contact On Line's representative and sure enough, their standard bust sizes were smaller than U.S. Standards for comparable sizes, in most cases.

As you may have noticed, both commercial garment producers and pattern designers have, for the most part, dropped sizing sweaters by the numeric system (i.e. size10, size 36) and have opted to use size ranges (small, medium, large, extra large.) Although these ranges are adequate to obtain a reasonable fit in a bulky pullover, if you choose a pattern with a snug silhouette, it is worth your time to take measurements and check the sizing chart for the closest matching size. You see, where one designer may choose a finished bust measurement of 41 inches for a size large, another may use a 44 inch finished bust. Also, be sure to accommodate your largest measurement. For example, if your bust is in the size small range, but your waist measures comparable to a size medium, you will need to knit the medium. Of course, you may then tweak the pattern for a better fit, if desired.

We go to the effort and expense of knitting a garment not only because we enjoy the craft, but also to make clothing that will be enjoyable to wear. But no matter how great the model looks in that racer back halter, consider your own body before casting on. A few years ago, I knit a gorgeous cropped sweater with expensive French yarn and it has stayed in a cedar chest ever since. As I am self conscious about my tummy, the sweater is simply not flattering on me. In the photo, the sweater was on a dress form and did not appear cropped. Not realizing that the sleeves were only ¾ length, I misjudged the overall length of the garment. Had I taken a closer look at the finished measurements, I could have avoided the costly mistake of knitting a beautiful sweater that I never wear.

For more information on sizing patterns to fit, there are many references available. Most basic knitting books have advice on the subject, as well as many articles on the internet. Of course, your local yarn shop is always there to help you and is your most valuable resource.
Happy knitting!

On Kay's Needles - This week, I've continued to work on my Fan and Feather stole. By the way, this lace stitch pattern is also known as Old Shale. It's already a pretty piece and I know that once it is properly finished and blocked, it will be a lovely wrap.

The other project I've been working on is a crocheted tote bag for the market. As in the knitted version of this project, I am using Antuco, a bulky weight, hand dyed, 100% cotton yarn from Esther Bitran, allowing this project to be machine washable. After exploring several stitch patterns in different combinations, I decided on a single crochet base with a woven stitch body. I left a stripe of open work (treble crochet chain) to accommodate a wide ribbon trim that can be removed for laundering. I have crocheted the handles separately, to be joined during finishing. The center of the handles are made with single crochets joined into a tube, a technique I developed that is working out very well. Although I considered adding a stitch pattern with a bit of flair around the top of the bag, when I finished with a brick stitch pattern, it added more flare than flair! I went back to the drawing board and finished the bag in the woven stitch pattern, with a lovely result.

Copyright 2008 Karen Mather