Godiva Cowl in Alp Premier

When Rare Purls had a Feza Yarns event earlier this month, the favorite yarns were Alp Premier and Dazzle. With the free Godiva Cowl pattern (courtesy of Feza Yarns) and a single hank of either yarn, it is a piece of cake to knit up a gorgeous and interesting infinity scarf, with just the right amount of bling to add some sass to any outfit. Whether you knit or crochet, these yarns do most the work, changing color and texture every few yards to create a truly luxurious, one skein accessory. The hank, even before stitched up, is gorgeous. It is also nice that as far as component yarns go, which are always pricey, these are very friendly to your wallet, with a project cost of $36 - $38. (My neighbor has knitted quite a few of these and after adding a hand full of her incredible fringes, she sells them for $85 each.)

Cherokee Princess Cowl

Another recent project using Feza Yarns is my moebius scarf using Alp Natural. Knit in the round, the attractive twist is built in on the first row. As in the Godiva cowl, stockinette, reverse stockinette, and faggot stitch (yarn over, knit 2 together) work with the sections of cotton, silk, rayon, and linen to create fabulous textures. This yarn is what the industry calls a "monochromatic variegate," As the different fibers and compositions take up the dye at varying rates, the result is a pleasing collection of hues.

Alp Natural

The Cherokee Princess Scarf looks great hanging casually on the shoulders with the twist centered (as in the photo) or pull it down around both shoulders for a topper with a very different look. (If you are a big girl, like me, for the second look you will need a longer cast on and possibly additional yarn.) Though my version is unadorned, I think this infinity scarf would look awesome with oddments of wood beads and shell on fringes, tied here and there on the fabric for a nature inspired necklace.

Flights of Fancy in Pichasca

As crochet is the most popular in years, we needed a snazzy, crocheted sample accessory for spring. The Flights of Fancy Scarf, free on the Lion Brand website, worked up beautifully in Ester Bitran Pichasca. Earlier this year in Vogue Knitting, Martha Stewart commented how much she liked cotton scarves, so I began to comb the shelves for an interesting cotton yarn, lightweight and in spring colors. Pichasca was my pick. This true hand dyed yarn from Chile is perfect for summer scarves and wraps. It has great yardage and the matte, thick/thin single ply of cotton pairs well with cotton tees and tanks. The quick crochet project is a great way to add some color to summer tees.

Outre' in Berroco Borealis

Although not a sample project, I knit up a third Outre' in Berroco Borealis for a friend, another easy accessory. Worked up on size 11 US needles in Berroco Borealis, this delightful, shimmery kerchief is a customer favorite and I often have requests for us to sell the sample right off the mannequin. Outre' is another great idea for Christmas gifts, as one size fits all, including tweens and teens.

Interlacements Sweet Feet - Stained Glass on needles

No matter what else I am working on, I always have a sock project on my needles. Of course, I use them to demonstrate techniques in my sock classes, but the main reason I knit so many socks is my guys love them! My latest pair are for Hubby Bill in Interlacements incredible Sweet Feet sock yarn in Stained Glass. Sweet Feet is the perfect blend of superwash merino, silk, and merino fibers. When I purchased my Sweet Feet, I picked up a second hank and gave them both to Bill on our recent 32nd wedding anniversary, with a promise socks in both would soon follow. He is such a dear and spoils me terribly, so with so many accessories completed, I am full steam on socks for now! Not hard to do when the sock yarn is this yummy, yummy, yummy

Interlacements Sweet Feet - Fireplace Embers

Happy knitting!
Kay Mather

Copyright April 2012

Extra Soft Merino & Extra Soft Merino Color

At first squeeze I liked these yarns, nice and springy, as one would expect from a ball of quality merino. The fresh, crisp colors are amazing! Extra Soft Merino are gorgeous solids, where the Extra Soft Merino Color skeins are interesting multis with long repeats. Moments 08 and 09 contain the supporting patterns for these two new yarns. The design team did a great job on this collection! There are garments and accessories for men, women, and children, something for everyone in the family. The designs are classic in styling with lovely details.

Moments 08 and 09

I chose the welted cowl for our sample knit, using Extra Soft Merino Color (ESMC) in Granite, a predominantly black colorway with grays and a teal blue as highlights. The color pattern is described as a "batik like" effect and the coordinating colors appear as pleasing patches on the background color, as if painted by a brush. As each 50 gram ball delivers 142 yards of plump DK weight, extra fine merino yarn, it only took 5 balls to knit the super size cowl.

A great topper for pullovers

Despite its generous size, this cowl is not heavy on the shoulders due to the finer gauge of the yarn. Also, it has absolutely no itch. Merino wool, coming from the breed of sheep with the same name, is the finest of all wool fibers. It is found commercially in luxury knits and woven suits. The fibers are consistently soft and supple, which is why when they are used exclusively in a yarn, "merino" is most often proudly listed on the label, rather than the generic "wool." Lustrous raw merino fiber fetches a higher price than other wools, so the resulting, consistently superior yarns and fabrics also fetch a higher price. Worth it? A resounding yes, for any wool project where lasting, next to the skin softness is a consideration.

Australian Merino rams

Not only are the Extra Soft Merino yarns pure high quality fiber, that fiber spent quality time at the mill. In both of these yarns, the springy merino plies appear nearly horizontal from the twist. This generous twist means more time to mill, a few less yards per skein, and a bit costlier yarn to produce, but again, so worth it. These yarns will offer great stitch definition and reduced pilling for garments that will look great year after year.

Check out the twist

As for my cowl project, from start to finish this project is easy peasy. The traditional welt stitch pattern is simple bands of stockinette and reverse stockinette. With only three rows of shaping, projects don't get much simpler! It looks fantastic with my pullovers and it seems others agree, as several people asked me "where did you buy that"!?

Happy knitting!

Kay Mather
Copyright March 2012

Oops! Wrong photo!

Anyone coming by Rare Purls in 2012 has seen the new addition to our staff, my beloved husband, Dr. Bill Mather. Although Bill has always helped us with events, shipping orders, and other support tasks, he is now a full time fixture at our Duluth, Ga. shop and is quickly learning about such knitterly terms as "gauge","DK", "wips" and the wonders of Ravelry. From living with me for over 30 years, he already knows quite a bit about knitters and has even held his share of hanks in the winding ceremony. I am loving his approach to bettering the shop, which always seem to include some form of tool.

Just last week, I walked into the back room and found Bill bent over the table. I figured he was working on our ailing winder, but to my surprise, he was installing an awesome new ball winder! When winding yarn this past month, Bill had noticed that my little Royal ball winder was grunting and groaning from the work load. Royal makes a superb little winder, especially for the price, but it is meant as a personal tool, not for commercial use where it keeps turning hours every day. All those 400+ yard hanks of sock and lace weight yarns had our little winder on its last leg.

Royal yarn winder

So you can imagine my delight when Bill surprised me with a new, jumbo, more efficient, heavy duty ball winder. It is made by U-nitt and will wind much larger balls, up to 10 oz. hanks! The U-Nitt winder utilizes a gear system, so one turn of the crank turns the cylinder with the new ball approx. 4 times, rather than the 1:1 ratio of our previous winder. So much less effort and no more having to wind awesome huge hanks into two separate balls! Whoo hoo!

Yes, Bill has saved us a bunch of time and effort and I suspect he has a few other tricks up his sleeve for the fixtures at Rare Purls. That I now have more time to devote to knitting and teaching has made me a very happy girl. I am loving working with my hubby again! Also, now Luke has time to get back to his computer repair/networking jobs, although he remains active in the business as owner/president of Rare Purls, LLC.

So if you are in the Atlanta area, please be sure to stop by Rare Purls. Check out all the gorgeous yarns, delightful patterns, and our new yarn winders. You will notice that one of them is actually quite charming

On Kay's Needles -
I have been knitting up a cool streak! Luke is wearing new socks on his size 13s, knit in Heritage 150 Paints. I wish you could all feel just how warm and cozy those socks knit up. Also finished is the cowl in SMC Select Extra Fine Merino Color. The splashes of color are all in the yarn. The welt pattern is super easy and with only 3 rows of shaping, the knitting is easy, too. More about the cowl and this new DK weight merino yarn in my next post.

Cowl in SMC Select Extra fine Merino Color

And check out Dan's Honeymoon Hiker Hat knit in Cascade Sierra, a comfortable blend of cotton and wool. Dan in an active guy and I wanted him to have a hat to keep his noggin warm on those marathon bicycle rides, he so enjoys. This is the sample knit for the 20sts./4" gauge in the upcoming pattern.

Daniel in his new hat

Happy knitting!
Kay Mather

Copyright - Feb. 2012

Cathy's sweater in Rowan Colourscape Chunky

Before I knit Solace, I read through the details in the pattern book, describing how this artisanal yarn is produced. An understanding of the unusual process by which this yarn is milled, greatly enhanced my knitting experience. Kaffe Fassett, a renowned color expert - or "colour" as they spell it across the pond - lovingly describes how the lambswool fiber is first dyed, then added in measured (by weight) amounts to a carder, producing roving in a set progression of colors. This roving is then spun into Rowan Colourscape Chunky. This process is time consuming and each machine can only produce 300 kilos of yarn in a week, reflected in the price tag. At $24/hank, it is the most expensive 100% wool yarn at Rare Purls, but I have to say that this uniquely dyed, lofty lambswool is worth it. It offers the experience of knitting with a piece of fiber art!

Colourscape Chunky - Cloud colorway

Truly, I cannot remember enjoying a yarn quite this much in some time. First, it is soft in a fluffy way. On my # 10.5 US Addis, the rows of stockinette flew off my needles so easily, I did not even have to look at my stitches most of the time. Yes, occasionally where two colors joined in the progression, the ply tried to split a bit, but once noted, I made sure to cleanly catch the strand and had no further issue. The single ply at times varied in weight from one color to another, kind of like my attempts at hand spun. In one particular hank, a section of lavender skinnied down to worsted weight for yards, causing a slight difference in the look of my field of stockinette. At first, I considered cutting out that section of the skein, but that would have upset the color progression and it really was just a part of this yarn's character. I decided to judge this yarn like my hand spun and allow for some variation in the ply, for overall, it is a lovely yarn. The colors are magnificent and the way they progress, exciting. As I worked the rows of stockinette, there was an idyllic picture of gnome like workers in my head, adding fluffy batches of colorful fiber into an old fashioned carder. I was in a happy place.

The back yoke of Solace

Although I am looking forward to using this yarn again soon, it is worth noting that Rowan Colourscape Chunky requires a gentle hand. I don't know if it is a short staple length or the mere hint of twist in the fiber, but you will not need scissors to work with this yarn. It easily pulls apart with a soft tug. This is not a flaw in the yarn and is inherent to the composition. This soft, lofty composition is one reason why the 100 gram hanks of bulky wool each have a generous 175 yards. (A 4 ply wool yarn of the same gauge has only approx. 120 yards.) It only took 5 hanks to knit Cathy's cardigan.

Melissa, Park Cafe's sweetest server, models Solace

If you look through the Rowan patterns for Colourscape Chunky, you will notice that the projects are fairly simple, using few pieces and basic stitches. I applaud that in her designs, Sarah Hatton, the designer of this collection of patterns, allowed the yarn to be the star of the show. The fashionable pieces are very wearable and the colors are show stopping. Her Cora, a free pattern from www.knitRowan.com , consists of one huge cable repeated the length of the scarf, another example of this incredible yarn standing out front and center in a design. We chose Cora as the sample knit for display at Rare Purls, as it illustrates the beauty of this yarn perfectly in an impressive two hank design.

Our friend Melissa sports Cora

As for my sister's reaction to her sweater, she loved it! Cathy immediately noticed that her new sweater would match her scrubs and the fit was great. I always love how she reacts to her hand knit gifts, for as a crafty gal herself, she knows the love and effort that goes into them. She even said the gals would be jealous, which made this sassy sister smile

Happy knitting!
Kay Mather
Copyright Jan. 2011
www.rarepurls.net

The happy couple in Scotland

Both Will and Vanessa usually opt for classic fashions that are tailored and practical, so with that in mind, I pulled out my sketch pad. I wanted the "for her" version to frame Vanessa's classically beautiful face in a simple, non-fussy, ivory lace. As my Will is a no frills sort, I decided to knit his hat in "blue jeans" blue, with the only similarity between the two hats being the choice of yarn, Calm Wool from Elsebeth Lavold's Designer Collection. The wool/alpaca/camel blend yarn is packed with luxury. If merino is butter, this aran weight, 3 ply blend of fibers is thick cream, rich and yummy! Dense but with a nice hand, this heavenly yarn quickly knits into plump stitches with great definition. (For more information on this specialty yarn, see the Kay's Korner archives for my previous post "Excited About Calm Wool.")

Calm Wool article.

The handsome blue "for him" version starts with a twisted rib band that changes to rows of garter rib before decreasing to the crown. Yes, Will appreciates simplicity and this design fits the bill. That their honeymoon photos show that he wore the hat often (as captured in some great photos from Scotland,) I know that it was comfy, warm, and appreciated.

Will in his Honeymoon Hiker Hat

The "for her" version of the Honeymoon Hiker Hat is knit in a lovely winter white. The camel and alpaca softly halo on the openwork band. Stitches are picked up from the Old Shale lace band to form the crown of this lovely, yet practical hat. Vanessa actually preferred the nonpublic side of the design which shows reverse stockinette with the edge rolling outward. As you can see in the photos, this is a very nice look, as well. The lace band of the "for her" hat serendipitously inspired a Honeymoon Hiker Headband - a design two for!

Vanessa sporting the nonpublic side of her hat

Old Shale lace band that inspired a second project

The final wedding project was a shrug for my sister, Cathy. Her birthday was the day before the wedding and I always like to give her a special hand knit gift for the occasion. That she needed a black shrug to wear at the wedding, took any guess work out of what to knit. Her wedding outfit, a sleeveless Oscar de la Renta dress, needed a topper for the upcoming cool, fall evenings. As I did not think I had enough time to both design and knit a shrug, I sent Cathy several options from Ravelry that I thought met her parameters - cropped to just above her natural waist, half sleeves, and with a 2 inch gap between the front pieces. We decided on Kaya Cropped Shrug by Dawn Leeseman, a popular project among the gals in our Friday Knit Night group. A great basic piece, I knew the top down, seamless, raglan design would work up quickly on #11 needles, a must if I was to meet the wedding day deadline.

Kaya shrug on needles

After swatching a few yarns, I again decided on Lavold's Calm Wool. The gauge was spot on and from earlier projects, I knew it would knit up beautifully. Cathy, though a good seamstress, is not a knitter, evident in her request that the shrug be worked in black yarn, a color that many stitchers avoid. To aid my aging eyes, I utilized the trick of keeping a white background on my lap while knitting, making it easier to see my stitches in the black yarn.

A white background enhances the black stitches

Also, I was fortunate that the project was knit primarily in good ol' stockinette, a stitch pattern I can pull off with my eyes closed. The top down design was easy peasy and worked up with no problems. The simple construction made it a snap to add some inches to the sleeves and body length, as requested. I finished the shrug just a few days before the wedding, handing it over to my sister only one day prior. Happily, the fit was great and Cathy looked lovely in her wedding ensemble! Her choice of black did amp up the formality of the hand knit and I overheard her getting several compliments on her outfit. (Of course, my far more fit sister always looks great, even in her scrubs at work.) We all had a fabulous time in Savannah and thanks to my friend Randie, have some great photos to help us remember the happy event.

Cathy, Luke, and Mum in wedding attire

To see details on the Kaya Shrug, go to RarePurls profile on ravelry.com. The patterns for Honeymoon Hiker Hats and Headband will soon be available on Ravelry.

Happy knitting!
Kay Mather
Copyright Nov. 2011

Although eventually we did get a big box craft store in the area, visits there were most often disappointing. In their aisles, I never found the specialty yarns and notions that were advertised in my favorite knitting magazines and the yarns they did stock had little variety. So many of the craft store yarns were cheaply produced synthetics, most often acrylics. I disliked the flat, vat dyed colors and the squeaky feel of the acrylic plies. The yarns reminded me of double knit pantsuits and this gal has always preferred natural fibers.

These days, I still love my knitting magazines and luxury fibers, but rather than raising kids and feeding horses, I teach people knitting and crochet. I also help Luke decide which yarns will fill the shelves at Rare Purls. With the current economy, many crafters (including me!) are having to deal with a smaller budget. With this in mind, Luke and I decided to take a second look at some of the more affordable synthetic and synthetic blend yarns offered by our suppliers.

Through advances in technology, synthetic fiber yarns have come a long way. Though the crunchy, orlon acrylic yarns of the 70's were a far cry from a nice wool, now many of the man made fibers are more finely spun, producing a much softer yarn. Other technological improvements are the methods used for dying. In the early '70's, a gadget was invented to apply different colors of dye to the yarn in sections, giving us the wildly popular variegated yarns. These allowed knitters to make projects with multiple colors, without the work of fair isle, intarsia, and striping techniques. Now, new technology has taken us beyond simple variegated yarns! There is computer assisted machinery at many mills that can space dye yarns to self stripe, mimic fair isle, pattern, and blend colors in many new and interesting combinations. Even the look of a luxury hand painted hank can be approximated in a modern yarn mill and for a fraction of the cost.

Even with better synthetic yarns available, there are still considerations when choosing them. First, acrylic fibers are manufactured, usually in Turkey, from fossil fuel. They are highly flammable and when ignited, give off noxious fumes that are suspected of being carcinogenic. For that reason, they would not be my choice for infant's and children's sleepwear or bedding. Even the yarns that are treated with flame retardants concern me. Will multiple washes take away the effectiveness of the retardant? I simply cannot say and there are certainly more prudent choices out there. Another issue with acrylic yarns is pilling. Pilling is those little balls of fiber that accumulate on knit and woven fabrics. It is caused by abrasion, either through wear or laundering. Acrylic yarns are often utilized for easy care projects, those destined for the washing machine and dryer. The agitation, along with the company of towels and jeans in a washer, delivers a load of abrasion which causes pilling. I have found that my acrylic projects pill less when I hand wash them, then dry flat. If you do add your washable hand knits to a load, placing them in a zippered nylon bag will cut down on pilling.

As for how our customers like the new synthetic yarns, they are buying them, especially for charity projects and easy care gifts. Our best selling 100% acrylic yarn is Marble Chunky, distributed by SMC, previously Kertzer Yarns. The fibers are spun lofty to incorporate trapped air and the result is a nice, economical, bulky yarn with great yardage. The two marled plies work up into a lovely self striping colorway, giving garments and accessories interest with ease. The huge 341 yard skeins are only $13.98

Another 100% synthetic yarn that is getting good reviews is Fusion, a soft chenille, multicolor yarn with cheery colorways. The colors are eye catching and the knit fabric soft and fuzzy. The huge 200 gram skeins have a whopping 306 yards, keeping project costs for bulky garments to a minimum.

Of the new budget yarns we have stocked, my favorites are those that have a healthy portion of wool in the blend. The crimp and elasticity of wool, a protein fiber, combines with the easy care and economy of acrylic to make some very nice yarns. SMC Tweed Montage, an acrylic/wool blend yarn, delivers several desirable characteristics. The wool component supplies a hand more comparable to the animal fiber yarns we love. With long repeats of color and classic tweed flecks, this yarn quickly knits into attractive garments and accessories. My favorite yarn rep. gave us a free patten for a darling, self tie wrap that quickly knits up in the bulky acrylic/wool blend. I enjoyed the knitting, as have many of our customers. The wrap takes only 2 of the 247 yard skeins for a project cost of less than $32.

Another winner is Monsoon, a James C. Brett 70%acrylic/30% wool blend yarn, also distributed by SMC. The gorgeous, soft yarn is dyed in long stripes of saturated colorways, reminiscent of Noro's widely popular luxury yarns, but without the price tag. Woodlander DK, another wool/acrylic blend from James C. Brett, has more subtle colorways. The feel of this yarn is yummy and the color shading is perfect for classic vests and pullovers. SMC also offers an exciting collection of patterns that includes all of these yarns, single patterns starting as low as $3.25.

Bottom line, though I still choose natural fibers for small projects, I can see how the new wool/synthetic blends are good options for quick bulky sweaters and easy care throws. They keep the project cost low, so often a consideration these days, while offering a machine washable garment or home decor item. These yarns are also a good choice for charity knitting and gift knits when project cost is a factor. With more of our dollars going towards everything from gasoline to food, it is nice to know that when it comes to yarn, there are many economical options that are still a pleasure to knit and gift.

Happy knitting!
Kay Mather

Copyright October 2011

This hopper stocked up on great new yarns
for several scarves and cowls

Sure, the prizes are awesome and plentiful, but there are no losers. There are other reasons to join the shop hop. The yarn shops get ready for this annual event with well stocked shelves, filled with many of the new fall yarns and latest patterns. The shops are all abuzz with happy crafters, checking out the wide array of sample knits in hopes of finding their next project. The Atlanta yarn shop hop is a happening! One look at the happy hopper's in the photos and you can see that this is not an event to miss.

These hoppers had custom, hand decorated
shopping bags and passport covers!

Kay Mather gives a knitting class on the Rare Purls Knitting Porch
during shop hop

The 2011 shop hop is from Sept. 17 - 25. For participating shops and more information on the 2011 Atlanta yarn shop hop, please visit www.shophopatlanta.blogspot.com

After completing the eye catching Firefly scarf, those loops of fringe inspired another design, my Going Loopy Scarf. I love ribbon yarns and am always looking for new ways to showcase them in projects. I wrote the pattern for Going Loopy Scarf using the same fringing technique and in no time had knit up two versions. With novice knitters in mind, I kept the pattern simple - just twelve stitches worked in garter to the desired length. All of the interest occurs when only the two center stitches are bound off and the remaining ten stitches are slowly unraveled, one side at a time, to form long loops. (To keep things tidy, I held the second set of five stitches on a needle holder, while unraveling the first side.) The trick is to unravel only a few rows at a time, taking care to include all five stitches, then tie the resulting two loops in a knot. This process is continued for the length of the scarf, then repeated with the stitches on the other side. The end result is a scarf consisting of rows of loopy fringe. What fun!! And this pattern is as quick to knit, as it is easy.

For my first sample knit of Going Loopy, I used Zahir, a silk/cotton blend ribbon from Laines du Nord. This matte ribbon yarn rendered slim, lightly textured, whimsical loops of fringe. The loops of fringe in this project allow the yarn to be the center of attention, rather than a stitch pattern. You can see every characteristic of this beautiful, multicolored yarn. The lightweight scarf is a colorful addition to simple summer tees and tanks.

For the second version of Going Loopy, I chose Kristha Multi, a wide, drapey, nylon ribbon yarn by Filati FF, distributed by Knitting Fever, Inc. The riot of loopy fringe is more dramatic in this yarn, perfect for those times when "girls just want to have fun", whether a night on the town or cruising around a street fair. Where I chose ribbon yarns, smooth super bulky or bulky yarns held in a double strand can also be used for a different look. I would avoid mohair or boucle, as these yarns resist unraveling. The same #15 US needle is used for all weights and styles of yarns.

This pattern is available on the Rare Purls website at www.rarepurls.net along with several other of our free patterns. We would enjoy seeing your version of any of our Rare Purls Originals designs. All of our free patterns are linked on Ravelry. Ravel it!

Happy Knitting!
Kay Mather

Copyright August 2011

When a larger needle than recommended is used, garter takes on a very different look. The shawl below is knit in simple garter. The very loose gauge gives a lacey look, and makes this project a very quick knit. The only shaping is on one edge, every other row - easy peasy! Garter's simplicity allows Atacama, the hand painted, 100% baby alpaca yarn by Araucania, to be the star of the this show.

In Elizabeth Zimmerman's Baby Surprise Jacket, garter stitch again reigns supreme. Rows and rows of garter, worked most cleverly, shape this little jacket with only two short seams needed along the shoulders at finishing. Knitters have long enjoyed this little project that goes from an amorphous shape to savvy little jacket using only the garter stitch pattern. Knit with only a few modifications to the original pattern, the Adult Surprise Jacket is another hugely popular garter project.

Another example of the classic good looks of garter is the Ruana by Oat Couture. With a single, simple row of eyelet as trim and some easy shaping along the edges, this topper is a favorite at Rare Purls. The pattern gives the option of using worsted, bulky, or super bulky weight yarns, allowing the knitter latitude in yarn choices. Knit for Mum's Christmas gift last year, my Ruana (shown below) features Kathmandu Aran Tweed by Queensland Collection, using the worsted weight instructions. This luxurious, specialty yarn gives subtle texture to the fabric, with the additional interest of colorful tweed flecks. Again, the simplicity of the garment design and the garter pattern focuses one's attention on the luxurious specialty yarn.

When designing my bath mats, I want a simple pattern that will be as functional and practical as it is attractive. Bath mats are a wonderful way to enjoy your hand knitting and can be knit to match each bathroom. (They also make lovely housewarming gifts.) The last one I knit, using a double strand of Plymouth Oakmont and simple stockinette with a garter stitch border, has lasted five years and still looks great! The garter border lies flat and the mat looks nice on both sides.

Of course, no discussion of garter stitch would be complete without mentioning the venerable garter stitch scarf. These quick and classic scarves are most every beginning knitter's first project and can easily be worked up skinny or wide, long or short, and in any yarn. My favorite version is to loosely cast on approximately 175 stitches of bulky stash yarn (or multiple strands that will work up as bulky) on a #11 US circular needle, changing to several other yarns in coordinating colors in one row repeats. I leave long tails at both ends to have not only a handsome project with lovely, long and colorful stripes, but one that is also self fringing. Just be sure to bind off very loosely and you will have an accessory that not only is a stash buster, but a new slant on hand knit scarves.

While it does take more rows per inch than stockinette, which also means more yarn per inch, garter's ease of execution is unparalleled. Remember, when knitting in the round, simple garter requires an alternating row of purl stitches. This classy mohair cowl in garter takes only hours to complete on a 16 inch, #13 US needle. Rows of knits and purls in alternating rounds quickly create a fashionable accessory on a circular needle.

At every skill level, garter stitch is sure to remain a favorite with hand knitters. It is a most versatile stitch pattern, used in everything from the primary pattern in shawls and sweaters, to edgings on shells and borders on blankets. Whether knit into an easy scarf, or jazzed up with creative shaping as in Elizabeth Zimmerman's Surprise designs, there is beauty in this most basic stitch pattern. Simple elegance never goes out of style.

My friend Jan wearing her first sweater

First, choosing the right sweater pattern is key. I always recommend that knitters tackle a garment that they enjoy. If you wouldn't be caught dead in a vest, it will be hard to get psyched up over knitting one, but if you know that your new grandchild would look awesome in that darling pullover, this motivation will help carry you through any new techniques along the way. Inspiration is a great friend to knitters.

My first adult hand knit sweater, circa 1979

After choosing the style of sweater, next comes the search for that perfect first sweater pattern. Just as a successful builder follows blueprints, the key to success in sweater knitting is to rely on the expertise of a well laid plan, a good and clear pattern. Although patterns are often rated with a skill level, it is not safe to assume your concept of easy is the same as the designer's. Also, there are differences among publishers as to the criteria used for their rating systems. Last year, I knit my husband a vest that was rated "beginner", yet it was certainly not a pattern that I would recommend for a beginner knitter. The stockinette body has interest in the trim, knitted insert watch pockets, simultaneous neck and armhole shaping, and a front band that continued into the neck band. Where it is an easy sweater for a knitter with some experience, most beginners would find it a challenge. As I recommend with any pattern, it is important to scan through the instructions before deciding to cast on, checking if it is within reach of your skill set. Check for unfamiliar stitch patterns, unusual construction or techniques, and designer notes. Taking on too many new challenges can lead to frustration and frogging (unraveling the project.) I am currently finishing an abandoned sweater from an above average knitter, as the design was fraught with techniques unfamiliar to her. It is a knitted lace, hooded cardigan with a very usual construction and early on, she became overwhelmed. Knowing the knitter personally, I truly believe that had she taken more time to read through the pattern, she would have chosen a different design and met with more success. Save that more intricate pattern for a later project.

Schematics are most helpful to sweater knitting

For a first sweater, I recommend a simple design, perhaps a basic vest, pullover or cardigan. The idea is not to dazzle with intricate lace or cables nor clever construction, but to learn how pattern stitches and pieces work together to form a garment. As an initial endeavor, I prefer a sweater pattern knit in sections, rather than the top down, seamless versions. This gives the knitter an opportunity to explore seams and to develop an understanding of the components of a fitted garment. Also, as the sweater is knit in separate pieces, each can be altered to improve fit, a more difficult undertaking in a single piece, fitted garment. Speaking of fit, if you happen to a be knitting a plus size, these more generous size sweaters fit better if they have bones, i.e. seams. My last top down pullover with raglan shaping in a plus size, a tunic from Cathy Carron in Hempathy, was knit to perfection and it looks great on my smaller sized dress form. Sadly, it looks like a sack on me and I wear it only when I do not mind looking like I knit for Omar the Tentmaker.

Dress form sporting the Hempathy tunic

As a rule, I suggest a quick check of the pattern on Ravelry for helpful feedback and errata. So often these days, there are errata for patterns that are necessary to successfully complete the design. Errata are corrections in published patterns, errors not caught until after the pattern has gone to press and far too many patterns have them. Errata can be a small detail, such as leaving off a fraction on a schematic, or something as major as an incorrect chart or gauge. Be thankful for the internet and the ease with which we can now find these errors in our patterns.

Ruched Tunic in Classic Elite Summer Set

Another example of a Ravelry rescue is when I got 19 balls of Elsebeth Lavold Calm Wool to knit a sweater coat and with such an investment in yarn, I checked to see what other knitters had to say about Phoebe, my Elsebeth Lavold jacket pattern. At the recommended gauge, I had used 3 precious balls and only had 10 inches of the back completed. I contacted a knitter who had completed the project, wondering if I should go up a needle size to conserve yarn. Her reply to me, mentioning how her beautiful sweater had stretched to the point that it was now worn only as a bathrobe, made me reconsider my change in needle size. The internet is abundant with helpful knitterly resources and in this case, saved me from huge frustration.

Knitting away on my latest sweater

After choosing a good pattern, pair it with an appropriate yarn. If the pattern has been written to promote a specific yarn, often all too soon that yarn will be discontinued and we must look for a substitute. A yarn company executive once told me that a good yarn will be in production for 2 - 4 years. After that it is a "great yarn." A yarn with a poor sales record, no matter how lovely, will be discontinued, sometimes with only one year of production. When choosing a substitute yarn, a close match in gauge and fiber content will yield the most similar results to the original design. If a pattern written for sport weight yarn is knit in bulky weight, you will end up with a gargantuan size sweater. A pattern written for gossamer mohair will probably disappoint knit in cotton. Even if the suggested yarn is available, perhaps it is too pricey or there is an allergy issue. If you have little experience in yarn substitution, your local yarn shop can be enormously helpful. The staff should be able to guide you to several good options for the original yarn in the pattern.

A Knitty design in three different yarns

Once you begin knitting, if there are questions about stitches, construction, or techniques, here again the staff from your local yarn shop should be able to help you. Some shops require that the yarn for the project be purchased from them, if they are going to be doling out advice, where others will be happy to help at an hourly rate. Some shops, including ours, see answering a few questions as an opportunity for goodwill with a new customer. (For those needing hand holding throughout the process, Rare Purls offers a First Sweater Workshop, helping the knitter from choosing the pattern to finishing.) If you are fortunate enough to have a local knitting guild, as an educational organization, they also offer help to needy knitters. For patterns on Ravelry, there is usually a pool of knitters who have accomplished the design and would be happy to answer questions on techniques and construction.

Wishing you every success in knitting your first sweater and all that may follow!
Kay Mather
Copyright June 2011

Of course, silks, linen, and cotton, solo and in blends, are front and center in the spring yarn collections. Rayon, a modern spin on plant fiber, is always popular for lightweight knits. I love its sheen and slickery texture, as well as its easy care and breathable comfort.  Bamboo is still the "it" fiber this season and is seen in yarns from fingering to bulky weights. My favorite is Berroco Bonsai, a very shiny and smooth, flat tape yarn with an interesting texture, reminiscent of bamboo itself. Knitting up at worsted weight, Bonsai looks smashing, even in simple stockinette. Though linen yarns are perennial favorites, I like this summery fiber best in blends. Pure linen, until thoroughly washed and worn, can be stiff and scratchy and has the tendency to stretch. Classic Elite has again shown their prowess in blending fibers in Soft Linen and Firefly, two unmistakably linen yarns that bring a friend to the party. From sexy tank tops to classy skirts, these yarns will not disappoint.

Of course, cotton is the bread and butter yarn of warm weather knitting.  Cotton knits up so soft and breathable, perfect for everything from summer sweaters to socks. Its reputation for easy care, prompts many knitters to choose cotton yarns, for example Jill Eaton's Cotton Tails, for baby items.  Cotton yarns with a healthy helping of wool, such as Cascade Yarns Sierra, Classic Elite Chesapeake, and Elsebeth Lavold Cool Wool, are customer favorites at Rare Purls. The wool guards against cotton's tendency to stretch and adds elasticity to the hand knit fabric. It also reduces the overall weight of the project. The synergistic combination (1 + 1 = 3) of cotton and wool is perfect for season spanning knits. Although last year saw a spike in the price of raw cotton, it is still an economical fiber option, especially as we see the price of wool climb up to 25% this year.

Naturally, accessories are key to spring forward fashion, so this season's designs will include cowls, scarves, and wraps in fresh, spring colors that will add panache to any warm weather wardrobe.  Openwork scarves and shawls, whether crafted through dropped wraps or true lace knitting, are always popular projects for summer stitching. This is the one time of year that I see swimsuits, always bikinis, on needles or hooks. As most knit fabric stretches when wet, cotton yarns with a dollop of elastic, such as Cascade Yarns Fixation, are the very best for swimwear.

On Kay's Needles
Firefly, a viscose/linen blend from Classic Elite, is the latest yarn of my dreams.  The fabulous feel of linen, along with the shine, and elegant drape of the viscose, make this yarn perfect for lace scarves and shawls, garment projects, and, believe it or not, kitchen curtains (check out CEY's spring 2011 book of home decor projects.)

I am knitting the Firefly Fringed Scarf from Picnic, a booklet of patterns from Classic Elite's 2010 spring/summer collection. Although the charts and written instructions were sufficient for me to knit Cecily Glowik MacDonald's charming design without a problem, there is a clarification on the CEY website that has proved helpful to many knitters on Ravelry. This pattern is rated intermediate and I certainly agree. The stitch count varies almost every row within 2 of the 3 sections and the stitch pattern changes on both even and odd number rows. I have found that an additional stitch marker and bamboo needles have made the knitting more agreeable.

Also on my needles is the Classic Silk Garter Stripe Pullover from Classic Elite. Last year, this pattern caught my eye, an easy season spanning knit in a gauge that works up quickly. I am using a color combo from a kimono design in the CEY booklet. The purple and tangerine stand out fresh against the neutral background, like fruit ripe for plucking. The yarn, Classic Silk, has the look of tussah silk, slightly nubby and matte, perfect for this casual garment. The minimal shaping made this project a very easy knit, TV knitting. It is looking fabulous and I can hardly wait to slip it on with my favorite jeans.

Kay Mather
Copyright May 2011

On several occasions. I have been so fortunate as to have Zina personally explain her design process in detail. Where she sees it as so simple and easy, I find it simply brilliant. Another of my knitting comrades calls it "terrifying," for she, like most of us, finds comfort in photos, schematics, and printed instructions, when embarking on a new project. But Zina only needs a swatch to be off and running, turning out sweaters and socks at a most prolific rate. Her preference for sweaters is top down and seamless. She incorporates cables and lace for both beauty and function. Zina also enjoys color work, which completes her design tool box.

Vest design by Zina

But truly the most wonderful aspect of our dear friend is her sweet and generous nature. She is always happy to nurture other knitters and is currently working with me on a shawl design, my choice of palette to learn her system of increases for shaping. I listen to her instructions intently, making notes almost as fast as her charmingly accented speech. Where I often rely on trial and error in my design process, Zina has amazing intuition. She maps out the sweater in her head, before casting on even the first stitch. I love that she relies on swatches, a practice I preach daily to my students. She can glean a design from a single swatch - amazing! -and the variety in her projects is endless.

Vest rear view

Recently married to Tony, the love of her life, Zina is happier than ever. I tell you , she glows! She adores her lovely daughters and embraces Tony's children, as well. Zina's outlook is so positive, so cheery, she is a welcome addition to several local knitting groups. Her free spirited approach to hand knit design is the only way she knows. Neither does she write out her many designs, preferring to encourage other knitters to try her patternless method for themselves. "Just choose a yarn and stitch pattern." "Make a swatch!" It is all so easy and solid for this small bundle of knitting magic, where for the rest of us, it requires a leap of faith.

Zina and Tony with her daughters

Although I am still in the inspiration phase of my new Zina style shawl, she has already given me some great guidelines for the fit I am wanting. Rather than work in strict terms like inches or centimeters, she instructs in more flexible terms, telling me to start at my collarbone and to reduce the rate of increasing at the "top of my boobs." This is the secret of her great fitting hand knits; they are custom fit to one person's body, using one particular yarn at a particular gauge. They are not just knit, they are crafted, and I have to say, the whole process still amazes me. Hundreds of sweaters have been knit with the help of the Sweater Wizard DVD, but for true knitting magic, you just have to meet our Zina.

Thank you Melissa for modeling.

Copyright Kay Mather April 2011