Kay's Korner - A Knitters Notes

January 22, 2008

One of the favorite sayings in our household is that even a blind hog finds an acorn, every now and then. Hopefully, we can approach the task of finding a substitute yarn with more than blind luck.

Previously, I have talked about substituting a different yarn from what is recommended in a pattern. This is something that comes up so often. You find a pattern that is oh so perfect, but either the recommended yarn is unavailable or for some other reason, found to be unsuitable. It could be too expensive for our project budget or simply a fiber we prefer not to have next to our skin. Whatever the reason, we begin the task of finding a substitute yarn.

Not long ago, I began a cunning little hat for my sister-in-law who lives in New York. She had been on chemotherapy and was getting into hats, so I set out to make her the perfect cover. Having found a great pattern for a moss stitch hat in Louisa Harding's book, Gathering Roses - Accessories. The pictured hat was knit up in Fauve, one of Harding's designer yarns distributed by Euro Yarns. Although I have an enviable stash and the inventory of Rare Purls at my disposal, alas, no Fauve. The search began for an alternative yarn.

First, I checked the gauge listed on the label of Fauve, which was 1 inch to 5 stitches on a #10.5 U.S needle. Although the hat pattern listed a slightly different gauge for Fauve in moss stitch, I thought that I should search for substitute yarns by their gauge in stockinette.. When I found that Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Cashmere recommended use of a #8 - 10 US and realized that the pattern in Fauve recommended a size #10 US (rather than the #10.5 US on the Fauve label), I thought the Silky Cashmere a probable substitute. Silky Cashmere is a soft, sumptuous yarn in designer colors, definitely a splurge purchase for me at $8.95 for 25 grams..(Since writing this article, there have been discounts available through some vendors.) As I worked my gauge swatch, I realized that the hat made in Silky Cashmere would be oversized by approximately 25%. I made another swatch using #8 US needles, yet still my gauge swatch was 13% too large.

My next choice for a substitute yarn was Kathmandu Aran, a wool/silk/cashmere blend from the Queensland Collection, a current favorite of mine, also distributed by Euro Yarns. Once again, my swatch was 25+% too large on #8 US, an even smaller needle than recommended in the pattern. Oddly, Kashmir had more yardage per 50 grams than either the Silky Cashmere of Fauve, which would lead one to believe that it would be a finer yarn, yielding a smaller swatch, proportionately, but that was not the case.

For my next try, I pulled out Cable Cotton by Elsebeth Lavold, a very soft 100% cotton yarn with great stitch definition. With a little blocking, my swatch knit on #8 US matched the gauge swatch on my pattern. Success at last!

Understand, it is unusual for me to have this much difficulty finding a suitable substitute yarn. I had used two of my three basic guidelines for comparing yarns, the three being yarn weights by group, recommended needle size, and the one I did not use, wraps per inch. My next blog entry will discuss the first two guidelines and other good information you will find on the ball band of your yarn. The following week, we will explore what I have found to be the most accurate guide of all for finding a substitute yarn, finding the wraps per inch (or wpi). I will also tell you how to make your own tool to measure wpi. Until then, happy knitting!

Post script from Kay -
Had I not been wanting to discuss various ways of determining if a yarn may be used in place of another yarn, I could have used Silky Cashmere by pulling out my calculator and converting the number of rows and stitches down by 25%, not so difficult to do when a pattern is in garter or stockinette and only slightly more challenging when using moss stitch. But for the sake of this article, I wanted to do what most knitters do to make a yarn match the pattern gauge, which is to go up or down in needle size, until the correct gauge is accomplished.

Copyright 2008 Karen Mather

January 14, 2008

Every knitter I know has a stash of yarn somewhere. As we progress in our craft, it is inevitable. It usually begins with the remaining yarn from our first project and continues with every trip to the local yarn shop. Even without a project in mind, a good sale on fine yarn tempts us to guesstimate how much we will need for a sweater. Of course, there are always those exquisite yarns that we just can't walk away from, but can only afford a skein or maybe two. They become our guilty treasures.

If we took the time to figure the dollar worth of our stash, I am sure most of us would be surprised. I see mine as a valuable resource. I can think of some use for every yard. I draw inspiration every time I fondle the fibers and every color speaks to me. Although I admire the women who de-stash on Ebay, I don't seem to be able to part with any yarn I have brought home. So, it is a concern for me to care for this trove of treasure. Moths, dust, odors, mildew, and UV rays, all will damage yarns.

There are many ways to store our stashes. The most popular way seems to be to leave the yarn in the bag from where we purchased it. Very bad idea! That crumpled bag in the bottom of the closet will probably go unnoticed till the next time you clean it out, which might be next season or even next year. Organizing our yarn will not only up the chances of it being used, it will keep it in tiptop condition for when it is called to duty. Many knitters decide to organize their yarn in baskets or as color accents on shelving. A large bowl of gorgeous fiber on a table is an interesting piece of decor. I decorated my Lantern Moon five tiered baskets with Christmas trim and paired them on either side of my door, this year and they remain eye candy year 'round (minus the trim, of course.) But for me, plastic equals protection, so, for my money, handy clear storage containers, stacked high on an easy assembly shelf unit, are the best bet for stash storage.

Plastic storage containers are available in craft stores, discount stores, and on line in a variety of sizes. (If you are cramped for space, there is a style that will slip neatly under a bed.) Although these containers are not totally clear, they are easily labeled, so you can peruse your yarn without opening each and every one. Some clever crafters attach a photo of the contents on the end of the container for easier organization. I take the initiative of tucking in the prospective pattern with the yarn, unless it would mean stashing a reference book. Whether you group by color, fiber content, brand, or weight, your yarn will remain untouched by the elements and needle ready.

Another option for storing in plastic are the heavy gauge plastic bags by ZipLok. They have an XLarge and XXLarge size, the latter holding over of yarn. Both have built in handles. They have not been as easy to find (they are fairly new) and are not as neat as containers, but they do protect from moths, moisture, and airborne contaminants.

Although I flip whenever I sight a moth in my home or workshop, few varieties will damage yarn. Clothes moths actually eat natural fibers in the larval stage and are difficult to rid from closets or storage areas, once they are infested. It is the protein keratin in fiber that attracts them, which is found in any animal fiber, fur, and silk. I have seen where moths have burrowed into skeins to lay eggs and although the fiber was not noticeably eaten, the remaining debris was unsightly and difficult to remove. I had to toss the yarn. I do not recommend moth balls or crystals. The lingering odor alone, drives me from it. Many knitters claim that lavender sachets will repel moths and they do leave a lovely scent. The old standby cedar works wonderfully. I pack my best sweaters in a Lane cedar chest and they are always perfect and fresh smelling, when I fetch them to wear. Cedar balls and blocks are handy, but be sure to use enough for the area you are trying to protect. They are best left for enclosed spaces, such as drawers or boxes.

Hopefully, all of you have found an inspiring pattern and some irresistible yarn to begin a resolution project. I have ordered some of On Line's Supersocke, a self patterning sock yarn that comes in a wide variety of both patterns and colors and am anxious to start my husband his first pair of hand knit socks. Until the package arrives, I am tackling my stack of UFOs. I finished a scarf for my Mum's birthday (on time!), that ended up being generous enough to double as a wrap. Using a combination of garter and double moss stitches, it knit up beautifully in DiVe's Mohair Kiss Ombre and the color coordinated Butterfly, distributed by Cascade Yarns. Both are available in a wide array of matching colors at your local yarn shop. Next week, I will discuss techniques for using hand painted yarns. Until then, Happy Knitting!

Copyright 2008 Karen Mather

As we begin the new year, yarn companies are already showing their spring/summer offerings. Cotton is the favorite and comes in every weight and composition. It is being blended with nearly every fiber imaginable, my favorites being viscose and elastic. I also adore the linen yarns, especially a linen blend ribbon. Silk remains the king of warm weather luxury fibers for so many reasons. It is versatile, strong, takes color well, has a delightful hand, and makes gorgeous garments. Bamboo is back, as are many other "green" yarns, such as corn and seacell. Many of our favorite yarns are returning next season in new high fashion colors.

Again, the trend for warm weather knitting is even more smooth yarns over the many novelty yarns offered over the past years. For those of you not familiar with the term, a novelty yarn is any yarn that is produced to have a unique effect when knit or crocheted. It may contain slubs, flags, or variations in color and may be composed of two or more stands combined Some incorporate strands of metallic fiber or ribbon. Examples of novelty yarns are eyelash, railroad ribbon, and tufted varieties. These yarns were in part responsible for the huge increase in knitters during the turn of the century. Novelty yarns allowed a beginning knitter to whip up impressive scarves using only garter stitch, with many of the usual early mistakes well hidden in the froufrou. I still recommend them for a satisfying first project.

But even with the huge variety of novelty yarns, using them came with a price. They were usually relatively short on yardage, which made them expensive to use exclusively in a garment. More importantly, as the new knitter progressed and added stitch patterns to her repertoire, these yarns gave poor stitch definition. The detail of a twisted rib or even a seed stitch would get lost in the tufts and flags of fibers.

Even if knitters, as resourceful as they are, had been happy using novelty yarns forever, designers of hand knit patterns were ready to nurture the boom of new knitters on to bigger and better things. The trend in yarns for hand knitting shifted to smooth yarns and designers challenged us to show off our skills. The abundant variety of fibers, weights, colors, and compositions have inspired designers to new heights. Knitters who know only the basic cast on, knit, and purl stitches are able to create lovely projects with texture, using only smooth yarns. For more experienced knitters, books and knitting magazines are filled with tempting patterns incorporating cables and knitted lace. Sock knitting still rules and self patterning yarns are plentiful, mimicking stripes and fair isle.

In these first days of the new year, I hope you will resolve to challenge yourself and learn new techniques. Find a pattern you love and some yarn you just can't do without, then create a garment showcasing your new skill, a "resolution project." The holidays are over and now we can settle down to some serious selfish knitting.

Kay's needles are having trouble deciding what to work on next! After so many gift projects and with a pile of UFOs staring at me, I so want to start something new and fabulous for myself, my own resolution project. Time for some inspiration at my own local yarn shop, Rare Purls.

Copyright 2008 Karen Mather

December 17, 2007

Over the next weeks, most of us will be spending time with friends and family. Consider spending some time with someone you enjoy and teaching them your craft. It will be a gift that will enhance their lives and just might be one of those gifts that keeps on giving. I always enjoy watching a student progress, but recently I was able to see how the hours I spent with a student incubated into an unexpected clutch of new knitters.

A young woman was referred to me for lessons by a friend from my church. We became friends as she learned to cast on and knit and I was able to see how remarkable she is in many ways. A psychologist by profession, she recently took a position working with at risk teen girls, a job she finds both enjoyable and fulfilling. The last time we got together, she gave me some amazing news - not only had she taught two family members what she had learned, she had introduced several of her girls to knitting. In this day of i-phones and video games, these young women are enjoying the traditional craft that I so love. That my young friend has shared her craft with so many, all I can say is that I am humbled. Kudos, Lindsay!

You need not be a teacher to share the love of your craft. All it takes is a little time, patience, and a willing spirit in both you and the person you are teaching. A simple cast on, knit stitch, and bind off will set the foundation, allowing simple projects to be completed. Even though many novelty yarns are being discontinued, they can't be beat for a gratifying first project. They hide mistakes and look so fancy, even in garter stitch! Teach the beginning stitches on a smooth yarn, then dig through your stash and find a couple of skeins of novelty yarn for that important first scarf. With some nurturing, you will soon have a new knitter in your circle.

As I look forward to time with my loved ones, I am hoping that all of you will, as well, enjoy the holiday season. Already, I am planning many tips and tricks to share with you in 2008, from using a niddy noddy to understanding how the characteristics of the yarns you choose will effect your finished garments. It is going to be a great year!

Kay's needles have been quite busy this week. A turban in Cascade's Fixation, a wrap in DiVe Butterfly, and a scarf in GGH Modena will all be under our tree this Christmas. I designed a gorgeous scarf for my sister, knit in a mohair/wool/silk/cashmere blend of fibers on US #15 needles. It should be finished before our Christmas Eve family gathering. And with a little luck, my mohair, cabled sweater coat will get a yoke and I will have something smashing to wear when "to Grandmother's house we go!"

Copyright 2007 Karen Mather

December 10, 2007

Hey, we're e-friends, right? E-friends don't let bad patterns happen to e-friends. Yes, I know we are in the final two weeks of the holiday knitting frenzy and in the scramble for a last minute gift, patterns on the internet, especially free patterns on the internet, are very tempting. I mean, they're right there. And in many cases, they're free! But please, read on and perhaps learn enough to avoid the scenario I see repeated so often, getting halfway through a pattern and discovering the pattern just will not work.

It is not your bad karma. I review many patterns every week and just a few days ago I received a pattern that was sent to yarn shops as a little holiday thank you. Pictured was a nice cardigan that looked a good fit on the model. As I read the pattern, the 1 X 1 ribbing pictured on the sleeves and at the bottom of the back and both fronts had been replaced with garter stitch. Garter stitch rows have more vertical stretch than either stockinette or ribbing. Also, a good ribbed cuff or bottom band are usually worked in a slightly smaller needle than the body and this was not the case in the pattern. The wrists in this cardigan will be loose, unlike the way the sweater is pictured. Many knitters will love the sweater pictured, buy the yarn, begin knitting and at some point realize "Oh, no! It doesn't look like the picture." And many knitters will try to figure out what they did wrong instead of seeing that it is actually the pattern that is incorrect.

Sadly, this happens so much more often than it should. Free patterns on many websites do not go through an editor, pattern checker, or sample knitter, as is required when a pattern is submitted to a magazine. An exception to my free pattern caution are those on the websites of major yarn companies. These are offered to promote their yarns and are often written by prominent designers. But beware the numerous websites where very creative individuals are trying to share something that worked for them. Patterns, especially those in multiple sizes, can be difficult to put into clear instructions and can be open to interpretation.

A free pattern isn't much of a bargain if it costs you valuable time. Read through the pattern. Do a gauge swatch. If you need help, go by your local yarn shop. But if you want a well written, reliable pattern, a book or designer pattern is money well spent.

On Kay's needles this week is an alpaca collar. I am using Maggi's Alpaca from Maggi Knits Irish Collection, a bulky weight !00% alpaca yarn knit on US #10 1/2 needles for a quick knit gift. It will work alone and later I intend to incorporate the design into a men's pullover.

Also this week, I have had the opportunity to see many new warm weather yarns. I can hardly wait to share with you all of the cotton, bamboo, hemp, silk, and viscose blends that are new to the market. New colors have been added to our favorite lines, as well. Naturally, the designers have come up with tempting new patterns in their latest books to help us explore next season's fibers.

Copyright 2007 Karen Mather